Trayal, my Predator has anodized rails. I love Deltas and this build size, but reliability could win me over. Printbed - what a horror. Tightened the belts, added some rubber feet to the whole thing, removed the filament holder and moved it to a table besides the printer. Maybe others that have trouble is due to just a little too much fiddling . Isn't 0.3236 a bit much for a 0.4 nozzle? I will post my config on github shortly.

This leaves you with a frame and some electronics. Have you set it up with Octoprint or astroprint at all? There was no update of shipping, no tracking number, no response to e-mails until I started to get nasty with them (although they had immediately charged my credit card). Thats a maybe, a question for my future self LOL. I admit that the prints don't exactly fall off the sheet but at least I can use the spatula without damaging the glass.

This is not the quality I'm seeing. If there is lots of spare tubing, cut it off, otherwise leave it incase you need to make adjustments down the line. The corners weren't well made; I had to cut down the edges that were preventing the base from laying flat. So. Well the limitations of the controller and absence of any upgrade path of the firmware is a considerable limitation, no argument there, and let's face it. While linear rails are often smoother and quieter, they are a significant cost upgrade over the pulley version, which is perfect for people who like to build the printer themselves. Also, I wonder if a longer upgraded tube would help. I’d been after a delta type printer for a while, after becoming fasinated with the way they work. I did all of this. I wonder if they're using the same approach as with the Kossel, and in a year we'll see an upgraded "Predator Linear Plus", or similar. on. If you see any areas (even tiny specks) which aren't black, then you're impacted. Oh yeah! Nope. Almost two months later. IMHO, they should have designed the extruded rails to mount the wheels so that the bearings were oriented so that the loads were radial.

It really is well built and very solid mechanically. you just have to make sure you have your slicer set properly. In any case, I'm an old deaf man, and can easily talk on the phone while seated right next to the machine while it's printing. The design of the Linear Plus is that all of the electronics sit under the bed. The carbon arm issue is admittedly the only problem I've had with the unit, but if I had not been able or willing to design and build my own replacement, the Predator would have been a boat anchor while I waited for non-existant support from Anycubic.

That ornament is printed in vase mode: 1 perimeter, no support, no infill. Два простых обновления и ваш принтер выдает потрясающий результат!

If this thing wouldn't be that big, I'd upgrade to linear rails :-). Good point on the aluminium base and the heat issues - I think i will revamp the complete print head. Our Predator is so very quiet, too. I lost a few mm in volume height, but gained a lot in print quality and quietness. I replaced the 2mm id bowden tube with a 1.9mm to help with retraction, and all but the worst filament feeds fine. If you take into account the amount of time and parts cost involved... the printer ain't free by any means... still I think it's a handsome addition to my workspace, and it is, ATM, producing very acceptable prints. Supposedly Anycubic is going to have anodized rails available by the end of 2019. Anycubic ‘D’ Predator Smart Effector Upgrade, Running RepRapFirmware on an SKR v1.4 with an SBC attached, BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 (normal and Turbo) and Fysetc TMC2209 v3, Compiling and running RepRapFirmware on an SKR 1.4 (and other LP17XX boards),,,,, 1 x extruder mount (this may work with the original extruder but I’ve upgraded to a BMG clone) –, Some sort of top mounting filament holder – Used the one off my predator – An example would be, Some Catapult Tubing – I got the yellow one –. The fans are a pain in... anyways, I'll opt for some Noctua or Sunon. Move the effector around to verify the movement and then tighten the cable ties. About 3 weeks of frustration. Here is a youtube of it in action. It uses a Chitu TriGorilla Pro board, which runs a 32 bit ARM processor and 4988 stepper drivers. The Kossel also automatically finds z-height at the same points. My adventures with trying to achieve acceptable prints is in the Thread above.... many many hours of frustration without success, and yes to all of the similar issues that others have had, but I persevered with my customer relations girl, and offered many a suggestion which, it sounds like, some of which was heard by Anycubic and is integrated in the soon to be released new version.

Thanks RQ3. the exrtuder begins a violent dance on the springs exerting excessive tugging on the bowden tube tethering it to the head... Not a pretty sight. Thank you. The carbon fiber tube I used exactly fit the magnets. Now the heat cartridge has to heat the plate too, which acts as both a heatsink, and a heat transfer bridge directly to the finned aluminum heatsink for the cold side.Why?? However, I was eventually able to make great prints. One of the two arms arrived.

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